Welcome to the workshop section. Here we hope to have lots of bits and pieces to learn from, articles, hints, pictures, good ideas. Just like a good workshop.
Come back soon to see what what we have added
Hugh McDonald Rolling Mill
Thanks to the amazing work of Adam Fromholtz and Paul Krebs, we welcome a new machine to the forge - a Hugh McDonald Rolling Mill. Hugh's elegant design allows billets to be evenly drawn out with a minimum of fuss.
It is adjustable for different widths and can even draw out tapers. It also forge welds! Combined with the power of the hydraulic press, making damascus steel is much faster. It makes virtually no noise, so is suited for surburban workshops.
To order a CD of the fantastically detailed plans contact
Hugh McDonald
150 Williams Rd.
Gooseberry Hill 6076
Western Australia
Venturi Burner Tutorial
This is a tutorial on how to build a simple LPG venturi burner. The parts cost around $60 AUD without the regulator. The forge's atmosphere can be adjusted by twisting the upright pipe, which varies the amout of air sucked in.
Please be careful when working with gas. If you don't know what you are doing, find someone who does.
After many months of construction (and a few setbacks) we welcome a new addition to the workshop - the hydraulic press. This machine puts about 25 tons of pressure on hot steel - forge welding with ease.
Initial tests in making damascus billets have come in about 16 times faster than by hand, without rushing! We didn't even break a sweat in making the first 180 layer billet. This should get faster as we get some practice.
It is the strong silent type and complains much less than a striker, and will dramtically lift productivity levels in the shop.
This press makes damascus courses accessable to students of the Tharwa Valley Forge.
Now we are looking at making a rolling mill to quickly draw out billets.
Many thanks to Myles and the guys at M and G Industrial for their help, support and advice
Gas forge making tutorial
We've added a tutorial on how to make a propane gas forge.
It's not too hard, it just takes some time. Feel free to use and develop the ideas. Details on how to make the burners coming soon. We accept not responsibility on the use of forges you make with this information. Please be careful.
Tharwa Valley Forge does make these forges to order complete with burner and gas fittings. See our shop for more details.
Some thoughts on using the LPG (propane) forge, is it not meant to be a definitive guide and it is to be used at your own risk
Safety
Please
use common sense and be careful
The
use of a gas powered forge can be hazardous if not done correctly.
Serious burns, explosions and worse are possible if the forge is
misused.
Always
use in well ventilated area – toxic gasses can quickly build up in
enclosed spaces.
It
gets hot in there – over 1000 degrees C, sometimes despite the
insulation the outside gets hot too, be careful.
Remove
all flammable materials from around the forge. Do not leave
unattended when lit.
Have
a fire extinguisher handy.
Don't
open the regulator too much, most forging can be done around 70kPa
with welding done a little higher, use just what you need with the
pressure – your gas will last better.
Use
approved gas bottles
Check
for leaks with soapy water. Use tape thread to reduce leaks in
joints. Any hoses with leaks should be immediately replaced.
Wear
good fitting PPE (personal Protective Equipment) including sturdy
boots, eye protection, gloves, apron and sturdy cotton or wollen
clothes. Do not wear synthetics!
Staring
at the inside of a lit forge can cause permanent eye damage –
there is a lot of IR radiation being generated. If you need to look
into the forge often, acquire safety glasses which protect your eyes
from IR radiation.
This winter we worked hard on upgrading the forge workshop. We have added to our facilities
a large coke forge
a new number 7 fly press (with lots of dies, punches and attachments)
a new anvil (bringing the total to 5)
additional tongs and tools
a ventilation fan
new shelving system
a new cutoff bench
a whiteboard
new stand for the leg vice
Forge floor
Number 5 Flypress
a Henrob - Dillon Oxy-acetelene torch for fine work (and saving fuel)
A big thanks to Iain, Grant and Myles for a big effort. We are looking forward to using the improvements in the upcoming courses.
Get a Grip
Fixing handles on knives can be a challenge. This simple modification to a standard Quick -Grip makes it much easier to get nice tight glue-ups of you handle. Remove the yellow pad and cut a vertical slot 4mm in one end of the Quick-Grip. You can then put the yellow pad back on an use it as a normal grip or remove it and use it for you handles.
To use glue your handle and place the blade in the slot. Gently squeeze the handle. Before final tightening check alignment of the layers, then tighten it up.
For best results make sure each layer in the handle is flat and do a dry run to check the joins before gluing.
“The viscosity of your heat treat oil determines the slow or fast quench. Burnt motor oil is slow - add 6% diesel fuel and it is faster (this will work for spring steels).” -Jerry Fisk
Essential Supplies
From our Store
Knifemaking Steel
High carbon steel for bladesmithing. Excellent for forging and heat treating. The steel works well under the hammer and the size is perfect for a range of small to medium blade. This is a simple steel that is oil quenched and shows hamon lines very clearly when heat treated correctly. Perfect for Japanese style blades. You should get between 4 and 6 blades per length. 15N20 is the same as 1075 with an additional 2% nickel. It makes a high contrast pattern when combined with either 1075 or 1055 in Damascus steel.
1055 - 4mm x 25mm x 530mm (annealed) 400g - $10 per length
1075 - 3mm x 25mm x 450mm (spring tempered) 250g - $15 per length
15N20 - 2mm x 25mm x 500mm (annealed) 200g - $15 per length
Postage/freight extra. This is in limited supply so contact us now to order.